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November 18-19, 2000

"The Highline Trail...Almost!"

Okay, sometimes life doesn't go according to plan. Even the best laid plans - those that are months in the making - can be scrapped in a split second. That is the best way to describe what happened during the ill-fated weekend of November 18-19, 2000.

Everything had been planned out meticulously. John and his father had been talking about returning to the Highline Trail sometime during the autumn months to complete the sections of the Highline Trail that they had not been able to do because of hot weather. These sections (from Tonto Creek to FR 144, and FR 144 to Washington Park) were those found in the Dude Fire area, which had not yet grown back (meaning that there was no shade to protect hikers from the hot sun). They had decided that the best thing to do was to do it as a camping trip, instead of a backpacking trip, so that they could complete the hike during cooler weather and camp in the warmth of the motor home. The best part was that they were going to take us (Erika and me) with them.

Due to time constraints, though, the trip was postponed until November 2000. After the date was finally picked, we began to plan out the details. We would be bringing the motor home and a tow vehicle, which we would leave at the FR 144 Trailhead; and we would be camping at Washington Park, which would the starting point of our hike. We had everything completely planned out - even the issue of the car seat for Mary!
Mary, dressed for winter in the motor home
So on Saturday morning, November 18, at 6:00 a.m., after packing everything into the motor home, we left for the Mogollon Rim. En route, John explained that we would be hiking a total of 14.7 miles during the whole weekend: five miles the first day, and almost nine the second day. He also indicated that it was good that we would only be hiking five miles the first day, because the weather forecast was for wind in the high country and a high of about forty degrees: it was going to be cold!

We really had no idea how cold it was going to be until we reached Payson around 7:30 in the morning, when we stopped to buy gloves for Erika and mittens for Mary at Wal-Mart. As soon as we stepped out of the motor home, the frosty air chilled us. "Brr, it's cold!" I said, walking quickly towards the entrance. John replied by indicating that we were going to be 1,000 feet higher than Payson at our campsite, which meant that it would be even colder - there might even be snow on the ground.

Indeed, that was true. As we drove on the Control Road towards FR 144, where we were going to leave the car, we found that there was a lot of snow on the ground. "Look, Mary!" we said. "You get to see snow for the first time!"

Upon reaching FR 144, around 8:30 a.m., we found that we were unable to make the necessary left turn in the motor home, so we had to unhitch the car and drive down the road until we found a place where we could turn the motor home around. (The only way to get onto FR 144 was to merge onto it; it was like a freeway off-ramp.) That took us a quarter of a mile out of the way. Then, when we finally made it onto FR 144, we discovered that the road conditions were so bad that we were afraid that the motor home would get stuck if we went too far. (As it was, we had to back the motor home off of the road, because there was no place to turn it around.) The car (which John was driving) didn't make it too far, either, before John was forced to park it. That was going to extend our hike by at least a couple of miles, because we weren't going to be able to park at the trailhead.

With that in mind, we drove back to Washington Park and prepared to go on our hike. After bundling ourselves and Mary up in as many layers as we could, we stepped out of the motor home, where it was sunny and windy and thirty-five degrees outside...

...and before we could even begin hiking, little Mary began fussing, as though she had gas. Simply put, it was just too cold for her, and she let us know that by crying. John and I returned to the motor home and tried to calm her down, but even before she settled down, we both had begun to realize just how nuts it was to try to do this hike with Mary. Even without Mary, it would have been a bad idea! It was then that we decided that we were just going to have to postpone the Highline Trail hike for just a little bit longer.

At that point, we still had a few options open. We could camp there overnight and do some hiking in the morning, or we could drive back into the town and do the Ballentine Trail on the way, or we could just call it quits and do something else - maybe a hike in the Superstitions - the next day. In the end, that was what we decided to do: go home, spend the night in our warm beds, and hike the Superstitions on Sunday morning.
Mary's first snow, at 3 months old
Before leaving the Mogollon Rim, though, there was one thing that we had to do: we had to take Mary out into the snow. Clad in her little hiking boots, corduroy overalls, and fleece jacket, Mary had her picture taken in the snow. Then, we all dashed back inside - five minutes was all that we could stand!

When we got home, we consulted The Hiker's Guide to the Superstitions to find a short hike that we could do Sunday morning, which would leave Sunday afternoon open for another home improvement project. John suggested that we do the Garden Valley Loop, part of which would be off-trail, or the Second Water Canyon Loop, which would also take us off-trail. Both loops started from the First Water Trailhead. The Garden Valley Loop follows the Second Water Trail #236 to a side trail that cuts through Garden Valley and back through First Water Creek. The other trail would go to the top of Black Mesa via the Black Mesa Trail #241 then cut through the cholla forest and drop into Second Water Canyon, back into Garden Valley, and finally end up on the Second Water Trail again. We still hadn't decided which trail to do when we arrived at the First Water Trailhead at 8:00 that morning.
Our group at the First Water Trailhead
We ended up doing the Black Mesa Loop instead - the same hike that John and I had done the weekend before - because it would be the easiest for us to follow. (That, and I didn't like the idea of bushwhacking with Mary through the dense forest of chollas on Black Mesa!). Just like the previous Sunday, the weather was perfect for the hike: it reached seventy degrees that day. In fact, it was so warm that we were even removed several layers of Mary's clothes, until she was wearing only her sweater and pants. And Mary did not fuss much at all during the hike - of course she wasn't being pounded by cold winds either!

Ironically, we hiked the same number of miles we had intended to hike on the Highline Trail on Sunday: almost nine miles!

We took turns hiking with Mary in the Snugli. I insisted on taking her first, because I knew that the first two miles of the trail would be the easiest and that I wouldn't have a problem carrying her. (That, and I used my "mother's prerogative", of course!) I carried her all the way to the top of Black Mesa - I hadn't intended to carry her that far, but she had fallen asleep and I didn't want to wake her. Then, Bill took his turn, and he carried her all the way to the junction with the Dutchman Trail. Finally, John took her and carried her all the way back to the trailhead. By that time, Bill's hip was starting to hurt him, so our pace slowed down.

We completed the hike at 2:00 that afternoon - much later than we had expected. After having an expensive lunch at a saloon in the Old West town of Goldfield, we drove home and rested.

Okay, so it wasn't quite what we had planned, but at least we had an adventure!

 

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